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JACQUARD MACHINES 



INSTRUCTION PAPER 



Prepared bv. 

H. William Nelson 

Head of Department o? Weavinu 
Lowell Textile School 



AMERICAN SCHOOL OF CORRESPONDENCE 



CHICAGO ILLINOIS 

U. S. A. 



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Copyright 1909 by 
American Schooi< of Corkespondence 



Entered at Stationers' Hall, London 
All Rights Reserved 



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JACQUARD MACHINES 



The term Jacqnard Weaving may be applied to all harness 
weaving that is above the range of harness shafts, so that a jac- 
qnard machine is simply a shedding motion whereby a large 
variety of sheds may be formed. The greater the number of lift- 
ing hooks contained in a machine, the greater will be the range of 
patterns that may be woven. Jucquard machines range from 100 
to 2600 hooks. 

Since its introduction the Jacquard machine has undergone 
many changes in regard to the methods of operating the different 
parts of the machine, but the principles ]-emain the same. 

Jacquard machines niay be classed under four heads, as fol- 
lows: J^\'/'sf, Single Action Machines, meaning single cylinder 
machines; S('('o/i<7, Double-Lift Single (Cylinder Machines; tltlrd^ 
Double Action Machines, meaning double-lift and two cylinders; 
?i,\\dif<>'U't'th, Rise and Fall Machines, which have a close-shed mo- 
tion. There are also special machines. 

When speaking of a jacquard, all the parts comprising the 
machine and the harnesses are included. These may be classified 
as follows: 

(^^) A-numl)er of wire hooks placed vertically in the frame 
of the machine. 

(^) A numl)er of wire needles placed horizontally between 
the wire hooks. 

(c) A number of f^priugs at one end of the needles. 

{d) Tail cords or neck bands attached to the bottom of the 
wire hooks. 

((') Harness threads which are attached to a couj)ling that 
passes through the comber board. 

( /") The coupling, which is usually composed of three or 
four parts as follows: 

A lingo, usually made of various weights of wire and which 
is at the extrejjie end of the coupling; a double thread, commonly 



JACQUARD MACHINES 



termed a hanger, which attaches the lingo to a mail eye; and the 
mail eye, through which the warp yarn is passed. When there 
are four parts, a don])le thread termed the mid- piece or sleeper is 
attached to the top of the eyelet and is then fixed to the harness 
threads mentioned at e. 

(</) The cylinder and its working parts. 

(//) The griffe levers. 

{i) The griffe. 

Hooks. A description of the great variety of hooks and 
needles which have been used and which coml)ine different ideas 



n n 



I — ^^ 



Fig. 1. Hooks Resting on Perforated Board. 



Fig. 3. Flat Hooks. 



as to their i-elative vahu's and adajition for the various machines 
in which they were or are used, will l)e both interesting and in- 
structive. 

In the old jaccpiard machine the hooks rested on a perforated 
board, through which the reck cord ])assed, and the l)ottom of 
the hook was bent uj) al)()ut five inches, as shown in Fig. 1. Bars 
were passed through the turned up portion, as shown in the illus- 
tration, to prevent the hooks from turning. The bars formed a 
frame which was lifted when the grift'e was raised. 

The next hook, as shown in Fig. 2, was flat. This also rested 
3n a perforated board, and, to assist in keeping the. hook in posi 



JACQUARD ^lACHINES 



\ 



tion, the needle was twisted around the hook. Tliis kind of hook 
and needle required too much time 
and labor when one had to be replaced. 
The illustration, P'ig 3, shows 
the next form of hook that was used, 
and which is used at the present time 
in many French machines. This also 
rested on a perforated board. The 
chief object of this hook was to re- 
move the necessity of having springs 
to force back the needles. At the 
point marked A, a rod passed through, 
the hooks from one side of the ma- 
chine to the other, which kept the 
hooks quite firm. Near the top of 
the hook at positions B and B*, two 



more rods were placed, one being at Fig.3. Hook Sometimes used on 

i ■ ' ~ French Machines. 

the back of the hook and the other at 

the front, the bottom of the hook being held firmly, while the rod 





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Fig. 4. Common Jacquard Hook. 



B pressing against the back portion of the hook caused a certain 
amount of spring. 



JACQUARD ]\IACHINES 



The rod B^ was to prevent the hook from swinging under the 
blades of the griffe when the latter was descending. The needles 
used with this hook had an elbow which pressed against the front 
of the hook as shown at C. 

What we shall term the ordinary shaped hook, but which 
formerly was much thicker, was next used. This is illustrated in 

'^ ^ rff\ r^ r^ 



ca 



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Cb. 



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(a 



ca 



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Ch. 



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ca 



a. 



Fig. 5. Showing Deep Griffe Blades. 



Fig. 4. The lower portion of these hooks passes through a grate, 
each hook passing through a single slot. When first used, these 
hooks were often bent or "crowned" under the griffe as it de- 
scended. In some cases the trouble was due to the wire from 
which the hook was made, but more often it was due to there be- 
ing too great a distance between the point where the needle was 
in contact with the hook, and the griffe, causing the hook to swing 
or vibrate. To overcome this defect, deep griffe blades (shown in 
Fig. 5) were introduced. 



JACQUARD MACHINES 



The use of these deep blades made it difficult for the fixer to 
replace broken hooks, in addition to adding weight to the machine, 
so another change was made, deep and shallow blades being fixed 
alternately; using hooks shown in Fig. 6. In this arrangement 
the long hooks had a tendency to swing back under the short 
blade owing to the great length of the hook, when the loom was 
run at a high speed. 



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\y \-J v_/ w \^ \^ v_y 

Fig. 13. Alternate Arrangement of (Iritfe Blade.?. 

The hook illustrated in Fio-. 7 was then introduced. It will 

o 

be noted the wire extends some distance beyond the point when 
the wire was bent to catch on the blade of the griffe. While they 
were new, these hooks overcame the difficulty to a certain extent, 
but as soon as they became worn, the top portion of the wire 
would bend and break, falling into the machine. 

In most of t!i(^ jacquard machines used at the present time, 
the griffe has been lowered to wilhin approximately one incli of 
the top of the needles and the hooks have been made of stronger 



JACQUARD MACHINES 




Fig. 7. Showing H.)ok Extending Abo 



ng Above Griff e. 







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O 


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Fig. 8. Hooks Used at the Present 



Time. 



JACQUARD MACHINES 



material (shown in Fig. 8), enabling a more compact machine to 
be made. 

SINGLE ACTION MACHINE 

The illustration, Fig. 0, shows a jacquard known as the 
Single Action Jfac/ti/ie. The chief feature of this luachine is 




that the same grifie lifts the hooks for every shed, so the 
grilfe must descend before the next shed can be lifted. This al- 
lows all the yarn to be lifted from the bottom shed. The single 
action machine is convenient and well adapted to work when a 



JACQUARD ISIACHINES 



high speed is not required; ninety to one liundre^d tliirty picks per 
minute being the most suitable speeds. 

In the silk industry the single action machine is extensively 
used as there is no dancrer of the cards becoming' crossed. This 
is a very valuable feature as M-rong ])icks are often placed in the 
cloth by a double cylinder maciiinc through the skij)ping of the 
cards. 

Construction. The single action is the original idea and is 
the simplest machine. Fig. 10 shows a sectional view of a 400- 
hook single machine. The meanino; of the term iOOdiook is as 
follows: There are four hundicd hooks and four hundred needles 
in the machine which are in rows of eit>ht hooks and eio;ht needles. 
It also means that there are four hundred harness threads to one 
repeat of the maximum pattern that can be woven by the ma- 
chine. Nearly all machines have a few extra liooks (from 11) to 
26) which are often classed with the regular innnber of hooks, 
but are chiefly used for extra work, such as selvedge, extra har- 
nesses, etc. A pattern of less than four hundred to a repeat can 
be woven, by casting out some of the hooks. 

Referring to Fig. 10, B is the needle board or plate, through 
which the points of the needles E protrude three-eighths or one- 
half inch. is the griflfe which is comj)()sed of eight blades; II 
is the spring box, containing four hundred brass springs which 
are placed against the back or loop ends of the needles, one s])ring 
for each needle, (t is the grate through which the hooks F pass. 

Needle Plate. In some cases the needle plate is made of 
wood and in others it is made of metal, but the former is un- 
doubtedly the more economical from every standpoint. Particu- 
larly is this shown in the single cylinder machines where the cyl- 
inder travels at a faster rate of s])eed than a double cylinder ma- 
chine, consequently there is more movement and a larger amount 
of friction between the needle and needle board or plate, which 
results in rapidly wearing out the points of the needles if a metal 
plate is used. Worn needle points cause a large amount of 
trouble, for in single cylinder machines the cylinder has a tendency 
to half-turn when the lay is pushed back by hand, and when the 
cylinder returns to the needle points the corner of the cylinder 
presses against them and invariably bends a number of the points 



JACQUARD MACHINES 



9 



down on to the plate. This prevents some of the hooks which 
ought to be lifted from being lifted, and causes some hooks to be 
lifted which ought to be down. 

A composition of powdered black lead and French chalk was 
used to prevent the needle points from wearing out, but it was 
discarded because the dust was constantly dropping into the har- 
nesses and yarn, and also was very disagreeable for the weaver. 



-H-H- 



oooo 
oooo 
ogoo 
oooo 

OOQQ 

oooo 
oooo 
oooo 



Spring 



Box 




Fig. 10. Showing Arraugeraeut of Hooks, Needles, Etc. 

A needle board or plate for a 400-machine, has 416 holes, 
arranged in 52 rows with 8 holes in a row. The rows are divided 
by a groove into 26 rows on each side. There are also grooves at 
each end of the needle board. The grooves are for the lacings 
which hold tlie cards together. 

The lacing naturally makes the card occupy more space at 
the ends and center, because it passes along the upper and under 
sides of the card, and if there were no grooves in the needle board, 
the needles would have to be made longer so as to allow the points 
to protrude farther out from the needle board; or when the card 



10 



JACQUARD MACHINES 



was in contact with the needle points, the liooks would not be 
pressed back far enough to prevent them from being lifted. The 
grooves are also a great saving on the lacing of the cards, for if it 
came in close contact with the needle board every time the cylin- 
der was drawn in, the lacing would soon be cut, and this often 
causes the breakage of cards. 

The reason for the extra rows of needles, is to allow the sel- 
vedge to be worked by that row of hooks; also because a jacquard 
sometimes has patterns added that require additional harness at 



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Fig. 11. Showing fjoops for .Springs. 



the front and back of the comber board, and the extra needles 
are used for the workinjx of the extra harness. 

A sirnng hox is seldom used on American machines to hold 
the springs that press back the needles, but where the spring box 
13 dispensed with, a longer loop is made on the back end of the 
needle (see Fig. 11) and the s])ring is jilaced on the loop, with the 
cotter, which holds the needles. The spring box, however, is 
most certainly of value if it is made to fit squarely in the frame- 
work of the machine. The springs are kept cleaner and conse- 
quently will give good results; and if a spring should break, it 
can be replaced more readily in a spring box than if it were on 
the end of a needle. 



JACQUARD MACHINES 



11 



There is, however, one disaclvantaore in using the spring box, 
for when the hole, through which the bolt, Avhich holds the box 
in position, passes, has become worn, some of the needles will be 
pressing against the edge of the spring instead of the center, un- 
less care is taken in fixing on the box. This causes the needles to 
Stick in. the box, preventing the hooks from working as they 
ought to do. 




Fig. 12. Hooks Out of Perpendicular -with Needles. 

W/ien placing hool's and needles in a machine, one row of 
eight needles is placed in first; that is, the needles are passed 
through the bars that extend across the machine from side to side, 
and into the holes in the needle board. On the bars the loop of 
the needle rests, the bars keeping each 52 needles separate. The 
first needle is the one that has the half circle, through which the 
hook passes, nearest the needle board at the top (see Fig. 10), and 
the others are graded down until the eighth is placed in. This 
will be the bottom needle with tlie half circle nearest the spring 
box IT. 

When the cotter has been placed through the loop of the 
needles, the hooks are placed in among the needles. The first 
Look is pressed through the half circle of the needle and passes on 
the outside of the others, which keeps the hook in position. The 
second is placed through the half circle of the second needle, but 



12 



JACQUARD MACHINES 



passes on the outside of the first needle and on the outside of the 
lower needles. This rule is followed out until the eighth hook is 
placed in position. 

The grate through which the hooks pass is sometimes made 
with extra rows of holes, and is also made so that it can be moved 
around to help in the setting of the hooks. For this reason, it is 
best, after placing in one row of hooks, to notice if they are 
straight in the grate. If they are not straight, and cannot be 
made straight by moving the grate, tlie next row of holes must be 
used. If the hooks are not straight, even though they may work 



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111 



J U U L 



u u u 

Fig. 13. Hooks Out uf PerpenUiciilar wiih Needles. 



freely, the needles, hooks and grate will be worn out in a very 
short time. 

The hook that ])asses through the first needle is considered 
the first thread in the pattern, although when standing in front of 
a single action machine, it is the last thread. In a machine that 
has the needle board divided into twenty-six rows at one side of 
the middle, and twenty-five at the other side, tiie twenty-six rows 
are always at the left-hand side of the macliine, looking at the 
point of the needles. (So that the number end of the cards will 
be at the left hand side of the machine, looking at the top needle 
board.) 



JACQUARD MACHINES 



13 



When all the needles and hooks have been placed in the ma- 
chine, the frame in which the bars that support the top of the 
needle, are fixed, must be made perfectly straight with the needle 
board. If they are not straight with each other, there is endless 
trouble with the machine. In the first place, the loop of the 
needle presses down the spring when the needle is forced back by 
the card, instead of pressing the spring back straight in the box. 
This will cause the springs to wear out sooner and they will often 
stick, preventing the hooks from being lifted. 

In the second place, the needle points will not be straight in 
the needle board. This causes the hole in the board to be worn 
crooked, also, the dust and oil that get into the l)ack portion of the 
board has a greater tendency to bind the needles when they are 
not straicrht. The holes in the needle board at the back are coun- 
ter sunk, which allows the needles to be placed in 
more readily when the machine is being fixed up, or 
when a broken needle has to be replaced 

When the hooks and needles have been fixed, the 
grate, needle board and needle frame adjusted, the 
spring box is attached and every needle is tested and 
made to work freely. After this is done, the griffe 
is placed in the machine. It is absolutely necessary 
that the griffe be made to lift straight, and each blade 
or knife must be in exact position relative to the 
hooks, or there will be a number of the hooks either 
"crowned" or not lifted when they ought to be. The 
griffe is made so that each side can be moved either 
forward or backward, but it is sometimes necessary 
to bend one or two blades of the griffe so as to have 
them straio;ht with the hooks. Fio;s. 12, 13 and 14 
show crooked hooks and needles. 

W/wii the griffe 'h nd^ the top of the blade ought to be just 
touchinor the hook. If the hook is pressing; too hard aorainst the 

o loo 

blade, either the needle point must extend farther out from the 
needle board, or the cylinder has to press hard against the needle 
board when the hooks have to be pressed off the griffe. Either 
case is detrimental to the nuichine. In the first instance, the 
cylinder requires to pass farther out from the needle board, to 




Fig. U. 



14 



JACQUARD MACHINES 



allow the cards to clear tlie needle points when the cylinder is be- 
ing turned, or there is a possibility of the edge of the card catch- 
ing on the needle points, preventing the cylinder from turning. 




Fig. 15. Showing Overhead Lever Lift and Independent Batten Motion. 

and causing niisspicks. In the second instance, if the cylinder 
presses too hard against the needle board, the lacing is often cut, 
and the needles have a tendency to pierce the card where it is 
blank. 



JACQUARD MACHINES 15 

Having set all the inner parts of the machine, the next in 
order is the tying on of the neck cords. Carelessness in the set- 
ting of the inner parts so far mentioned cannot afterwards be rec- 
tified, and means the loss of years of work from the machine be- 
sides havinn; endless trouble durino; the time it is workincr. 

The Outer Workings of the flachine. There are five distinct 
methods of operating the movable parts of the machine: J^'ir.st, top 
or overhead lever lift ajid independent batten or swing cylinder 
motion; second, overlw^d lever and spindle cylinder motion; ^//m/, 
overhead lever and independent slide cylinder motion; fourth, 
bottom or cradle lever lift, and independent spindle cylinder mo- 
tion; ^\\(\. flftl'i bottom or cradle lever lift and spindle cylinder 
motion. 

The first method is illustrated by Fig. 15. It consists of a 
lev^er at the top of the machine, or in some instances suspended 
from the beam that suj)ports the ceiling. The inner end of the 
lever is connected by a link to the crossbar of the griffe. This 
must be fixed exactly in the center of the crossbar so as to give a 
straight lift to the griffe. To the outer end of the lever, a long 
drivincf rod is attached. Tiie bottom end of the drivinor rod is 
placed on a stud attached to the hand wheel, which is fixed on the 
crank shaft of the boom when the machine is a sinole lift. The 
overhead lever is from thirty-six to forty inches long, according 
to the width of the loom. On the thirty-six inch lever the inner 
end, which is attached to the crossbar from the link to the sup- 
])orting stud, fixed in the bracket attached to the framework of 
the machine, is about ten and one-half inches lono;, and the loncrer 
end, which is attached to the lifting rod, is twenty-four to twenty- 
five and two-thirds inches loner. The throw from the center of 
shaft to the stud fixed to the hand wheel is four inches. This 
gives an eight-inch stroke on the hand wheel. 



10| X 8 ^ . ^ 

— —^.i — = 3 A inches 



Allowing for the fall of the griffe below the bend of the hook 
the movement will give about a three-inch shed in the harnesses. 



16 



JACQUARD MACHINES 



The batten or swing cylinder movement is shown in detail in 
Fig. 16. It is composed of five distinct parts as follows: 

(«) Two small arms are fixed at the top of the machine, one 
at each side. Two pointed set screws with lock nuts are set in the 
arras and the batten or swing is suj)ported on these points. 

(i) The batten, which is in the form of a square iron frame. 

(r) Two cups set in the batten frame, which support the 
cylinder. The cups are made of iron or brass and are held in 
])lace by a bolt with thumb screw on the outside of the frame of 
the batten. Set into the bottom of the batten frame and pressing 



m 





ii» 




M 



Pig. 16. Uetiiils of Batten or Swing C'yliiuler Motion. 



upwards against the cups, are two set screws whose ])urpose is to 
raise or lower the cylinder. 

(</) The cylinder. This is a S(|nare jirism with a numl)er 
of holes bored on each side to correspond with the needles in the 
machine. On each of the four sides of the cylinder and near each 
end there is a small brass peg (shown in Fig. 17) for the purpose 
of holding the card in the correct position on the cylinder. (The 
perforations in the cards should be over the holes in the cylinder). 
The pegs are set so they can be adjusted to the right or left. At 
the ends of the cylinder square iron castings with rounded edges 
are fixed. 



JACQUARD MACHINES 



11 



(^e) A spring hammer, the flat end of which rests on the 
casting on the end of the cylinder. What might be termed the 
handle of the hammer passes through the lower cross" rail of the 
bottom frames and through the top frame. 
A spring is placed between the two rails and 
around the handle of the hammer. The ob- 
ject of the hammer is to keep the cylinder 
perfectly level so that the cylinder will strike 
the board level. 

Flat springs also are attached to the in- 
side of the batten, the lower end of the spring 
pressing the card to the cylinder. It is im- 
possible to overestimate the value of these 
springs, especially on single cylinder ma- 
chines, for it would be almost impossible to 

work without them. Their great value is shown when the cylinder 
is leaving the needle board l)y preventing the card from swing- 




Fig. 17. Spring Peg. 




\^ \^ KJ \^ 

Fig. 18. Cylinder Out of True with Needle Board. 

ing on to the points of the needles, and also preventing the cards 
from slipping off the pegs as the cylinder is drawn over by the 
catch. 



18 



JACQUARD MACHINES 



The catch is fixed to the framework of the machine, and 
rests on the square casting fixed to the end of the cylinder. As 
the cylinder moves out, the catch comes in contact M'ith the 
rounded edges of the square and in this manner the cylinder is 
turned. There is also another catch fixed underneath, hut it is 
not in contact with the cylinder, and is adjusted so that it can be 
raised uj) in contact and the top catch raised from contact with 
the cylinder. This permits the cylinder to he turned back when 
a lost pick has to be found. 

At each side of the batten frame toward the lower end, an arm 
is fixed. To these arms rods that extend downward are attached, 




li 



Iron H;ir SiipiMirliiif; Batten Frame. 



and each rod is iixed to an arm that is set-screwed on a shaft sup- 
ported by brackets fixed to the arch of the loom. At the end of 
this shaft another arm is fixed and is connected to the eccentric 
rod that is attached to the clamp that encircles the cam or eccen- 
tric. The cam is for the purpose of imparting motion to the 
batten. The cam generally used to operate the batten is about 
three and one-half inches from center of movement to extreme 
outside length of cam. The cylinder is moved out from the 
needle board from two to three inches. 

F(>7' the mving of cards ^ a great deal depends upon the move- 
ment that is imparted to the cylinder. The less movement that 
can be given to the cylinder, the better; that is, of course, when 
obtaining the results required. The cylinder ought to be about 
one-quarter inch from the needle points when commencing to turn. 
Sometimes it is necessary to have the cylinder a little farther out, 
especially when the cards have been stored in a damp place and 
become warped so that they do not lie flat on the cylinder. In 



JACQUARD INIACHINES 



19 



this case, unless the cylinder is a little farther out from the needle 
])oints when commencing to turn, the edge of the card will catch 
on the needle points. Tliis will throw the cards off the pegs and 
cause a pick-out. If the distance traveled by the cylinder is too 
short, it causes too sharp a turning of the cylinder, which has a 
tendency to jniuj) tiie cards from the pegs; and if the cylinder 
moves out too far, there is too much friction on the working parts, 
as the larger distance has to be traveled in the same space of time 
as the shorter distance. 

When setting the batten frame l)y either the set screws or the 
arms to which the set screws are attached, the principal point is 
that the cylinder must be flat against the needle board, both at the 




Fig. 20. .'^piudle Cy Under Motion. 

top and bottom of the board, and have the needle points as near 
the center of the holes in the cylinder as possible. It is particu- 
larly desirable that all points Ije squai-e and straight with the 
batten motion, because tlie l)atten, moving from a top connection, 
performs an arc movement, and if the cylinder does not lie flat 
against the needle board, some of the hooks will not be pressed 
•far enough off the griffe, or the points of the needles will come in 
contact with the sides or bottom of the holes in the cylinder and 
in that case, hooks will be down when they ought to be lifted. 
Fig, 18 shows the cylinder set crooked with the needle board. 

The set screw suj)port for the batten frame is a very objec- 
tional feature as will readily be seen, for the frame resting and 
working on two points is a great strain and some part of the 



20 JACQUARD ISIACHINES 

screw soon becomes worn. This, of course, lowers the cylinder. 
When the cylinder is adjusted by turning tiie set screw, the frame 
is not only raised higher but is moved to the right or left, which 
throws the cylinder out of place, thus making double the amount 
of work to adjust it. 

The method of supporting a batten frame on an iron bar is 
by far the best, as by this arrangement, the cylinder can be di- 
rectly adjusted. The illustration given in Fig. 11), shows this 
method of supporting the cylinder. 

In the second method of operating tlie movaVde parts (see 
Fig. 20) the top motion remains the same as in the first, but the 
method of operating the cylinder is different. Fixed to each side 
of the square iron frame that supports the cylinder, is an iron 
si)indle, which glasses through two brackets which act as slides for 
the spindle and are fixed to the frame of the machine. Attached 
to this cylindei' s|>indle is a two-inch cranked slotted arm. At- 
tached to the spindle of the griffe is a small extention on which an 
iron roller is placed. This iron roller sets in the slot of the 
cranked arm; the slot arm being about seven inches long. The 
seven inches is divided into three parts, the top and lower por- 
tions being perpendicular, to allow a rest for the cylinder when it 
is out from the needle board, and also when it is in contact with 
the needle board. As the griffe is lifted, the roller j)assing up 
the slot of the cranked arm forces out the cylinder. The distance 
the cylinder is moved cannot be changed to any great extent, nei- 
ther can the time of the cylinder be changed, so that when a 
warped set of cards is being used, there is always the tendency for 
the cards to catch on the needle points. 

In the third movement (see Fig. 21), the top motion is the 
same as the first and second, but liie cylinder movement is dis- 
tinct. A flat, iron casting which acts as a slide, is placed on each 
side of the machine. These slides are supported by small iron 
rollers, which are placed in brackets fixed to the frame of the ma- 
chine. At the end of the slide, a brass cup for the cylinder and 
the spring hammer is fixed. A stud is attached to the slide. 
The rod connected to the clamp of the cam (or what is called the 
eccentric rod) extends upwards and is attached to an arm that is 
set-screwed on a shaft, but extends upwards. This movement is 



JACQUARD MACHINES 



21 



one of the best. The brackets that support the rollers are adjust- 
a])le but seldom in the life of a harness do they require adjustin|j^, 
for if the rollers are well oiled they last many years, l)ecause the 
friction is at the lowest possible point. 

In the fourth movement a square cradle lever is placed in 
brackets near the- feet of the machine, and connected to the top of 
the griflfe spindle by means of an arm attached to the end of the' 
cradle lever. This is shown in the (loul)le lift machine. Fig. 22. 




Fig. 21. Showing Overhead Lever Lift and Slide Cylinder Motion. 



There is an arm at each side of the machine that is connected to 
the cradle lever. To the outer end of the lever the long lifting 
rod is attached. The length of the square lever is generally 
twenty-eight inches from fulcrum to connection of long lifting 
rod, and ten inches on the shorter end. This gives about a four- 
inch lift to the griffe. The cylinder is driven by an independent 
spindle motion. An iron spindle is attached to the frame that 
supports the cylinder. The spindle passes through two slide 
brackets fixed to the sides of the machine. Between the two 



22 JACQUARD I\L\CHINES 

brackets and set-screwed on the spindle is an extension with a 
stud attacbed to the top of it. On this stud, the connecting arm 
from the lever is placed. The lever is supported at the top of the 
same bracket that supports the square lifting lever. To the outer 
end of the lever the eccentric rod is attached, but instead of using 
a cam to give motion to the cylinder, one part of a double crank 
'is used, the other portion is used for lifting the grilfe. 

The fifth method is the same as the fourtli with the excep- 
tion that the cylinder is operated by the slotted crank arm. same 
as in the second method. 

DOUBLE LIFT AND SINGLE CYLINDER MACHINES 

The illustration. Fig. 22, shows a machine of this type. The 
same methods are used to operate this kind of machine as are used 
with the single action with this exception that there must be two 
liftino- levers, either overhead or cradle levers. The reason for 
using this kind of machine is to have an open shed motion, and to 
gain a little extra speed; but this naturally drives the cylinder 
faster, consequently there is a greater damage done to the cards 
unless great care is taken with them and additional appliances 
used to prevent them from jumping off the pegs. 

The needles and hooks used in this kind of machine are 
shown in Fig. 23. Each needle has two eyes or curves. The rea- 
son for two eyes is as follows: There is l)ut one cylinder and two 
griffes, one of which is de.;cending while the other is ascending. 
The cylinder has to pass in for every pick; that is, for each lift of 
the griffe, which necessitates the use of double the number of 
hooks; so that in a 400-machine, there are 800 hooks, without the 
extra ones. The top bend of every hook is turned in the- same 
direction, that is, toward the needle board. 

The hook that is used on this machine requires a deep bend 
at the top so as to have a firm grip on the griffe blade. This is 
necessitated by the method of controlling two hooks with one 
needle, for it sometimes happens that one hook is lifted while the 
other is pressed back by the cylinder, so that the same thread will 
not be lifted for the next pick. 

The bottom of the hook is made in the form of a capital let- 
ter V, The reason for this is that it saves a considerable amount 



JACQUARD MACHINES 



23 



of friction by allowing the bottom of the book that is lifted to 
move back a little as the '^partner" hook is being pressed by the 
needle. This shape of hook saves the grate thiongh which the 




bottom of the hook passes. Fig. 23 shows the position occupied 
by the hooks when one hook is lifted and the other hook (which 
passes through the same needle) is pressed off. The dotted lines 
show the original positions of the hooks. 



24 



JACQUARD MACHINES 



In addition to the added friction on the needles and hooks, it 
takes considerably more time to replace a worn needle than it does 
in machines where single needles are used, for a rod has to be 
temporarily inserted that will press to one side the two hooks 
around which the needle has to go, and it is often necessary to 
take out the hooks until the needle has been replaced, particularly 




Fig. 23. Needles and Hooks U.sed in Double Lift ;ind Single (Cylinder Machines. 

if the machine is an old one, or if deep blades are used in the 

griffe. 

DOUBLE ACTION MACHINE 

This means that there are two griffes and two cylinders. The 
same methods are used to operate the moving parts, as are used on 
the single action machines, but the lever and arms are used in a 
compound manner. This machine is undoubtedly the best, where 
large reproduction is aimed at, for it can be run 170 or 180 picks 
per minute. The illustration. Fig. 24, shows a double action 
machine. 

The shedding motion is obtained by means of a double crank 
Hxed on the end of the pick cam shaft, and to which the long lift- 



JACQUARD MACHINES 



25 



ing rods are attached. This is shown in Fig. 25. Cams have 
been used to take the place of the double crank, so as to allow a 
dwell for the shed while the shuttle is passing through. It is par- 
ticularly desirable in a broad loom to have the shed full open for 
a longer period in order to' give clearance for the shuttle, but the 




cam motion was proven to be somewhat detrimental, owinf to the 
quick rise and fall of the harnesses, which causes the lincroes to 
jump and to be constantly breaking off. The neck cords also were 
constantly breaking. The cam movement could be used success- 
fully with a Jacquard that had not many harness threads attached 



26 



JACQUARD MACHINES 



^ 



(^ /] 



f^ 



to the neck cords, and had heavier lingoes fixed to the harnesses, 

but for general use, the double crank is best, as it gives a more 

even movement. There is also a short dwell while passing around 

the extended part of the crank. 

The time to set the craidc is to have it level, that 
is, the two extreme points horizontal, when the crank 
shaft is a little ahead of tlie bottom center, or to have 
the reed about lA inches from the cloth when the 
shed is level. 

( )wing to the general for- 
mation of tlie double action 
machine, that is, the use of 
t\\ o hooks for one set of har- 
ness threads, there is a some- 
what uneven movement to the 
harnesses. When a griffe is 
descendinji; an<l some of th(> 
hooks that are on the griife 
are to be lifted for the next 
shed, and tlie hooks are jiass- 
ing each other at the center 

of movement, the angle of the harness 

threads is changed, for as one hook is lifted 

from tlie to]) shed, the neck cold altaehcil 

to the hook that is at the bottom is slack. 

When this hook is raised for the next pick, 

at the point when all the slack cord is 

taken up, the uneven movement is caused, 

the harnesses swinging over into the'line 

with the lifting hook. The results from 

this movement are not so harmful if the 

jacquard is tied uj) proportionally and run 

at the right speed; but when the machine 

is run too fast and the lingoes are too light, also when the neck 

cord is too short, a large amount of trouble is caused. 

Instead of connecting the harnesses to the hooks, by means of 

two neck cords, one is used as shown in Fig. 20. The link answers 




Fig. 2G. Showing Counec- 

lion of Neck Cords 

to Hooks. 



the purpose for which it is intended, that is, to take away the slack 



JACQUARD MACHINES 



27 



neck cord. It also reduced the uneven movement. However, un- 
less the hooks are kept perfectly straight, the link will not work, 
and it is common for a hook to be bent a little imderneath the 
grate. 

When one neck cord breaks on the ordinary double action 
machine, the defect is not readily seen, because the harness cord 
will be lifted by the otlier hook, unless it is a pattern where that 
particular hook from which the cord has broken is lifted very 
often. When the link is used, all the harness threads that are 



WW 
MM 



\/ 



\/ 



\/ 



\7 



\/ 



\/ 



B K 

\7 



mm 



mm 
mm 
mm 
mm 

mm 



Fig. 27. Arrangement of Needles and Hooks iu Double Action Machine. 



attached to the link will fall, owing to the use of only one neck 
cord; this also occurs on the sintrle action machine. 

Needles. The illustration Fig. 27 shows the arrangement of 
needles in a double action machine. The first needle at the top 
marked A, controls the hook B, passing down in regular order 
until the bottom needle in the right hand needle board, marked C, 
controls the hook D. The first needle in the left hand or bottom 
needle board, marked E, controls the hook F, which is the partner 
to I), that is, F and D control the same harness threads, as will be 
noticed by the connection at the bottom G. The eighth needle iu 



28 



JACQUARD MACHINES 



the bottom needle board, marked IT, controls tbe hook Iv, which 
is the partner hook to B. The bottom se.t of needles is exactly 
like the top set. They are placed in the same relative position, 
but work from the opposite direction. 

There being two cylinders on this type of machine, one passes 
in as the other is going out. Both cylinders turn toward the 
machine as indicated by the arrows, and a glance at the two cards 
A and B with holes marked 1 and 2, and needles nuirked the same 
will show the two hooks F and D control the same harness threads. 

It will be noticed that one hook has the top bend bent back- 
ward, while the other bends forwaixl in the same direction as the 




Fig. 28. SliowhiK I^evers, Supports aud Studs. 



lower bend of the hook. The reason for this latter is that it would 
require more space in the grate and the needles would have to be 
longer, which would make a broader machine if the same shape of 
hook were used: so that by the use of these hooks, considerable 
space is gained. 

When cuttiiitr cards for a double action machine, each card is 
cut from the design singly, just the same as if cutting cards for a 
single action machine. After the cards are cut, they are divided, 
the odd numbers from the even numbers, so that when laced they 
form, as it were, two sets of cards, one set being placed at one side 
of the machine and the other set at the other side of the machine. 

A double action machine is composed of double the number 
of working parts that are on a single action machine, but they are 



JACQUARD MACHINES 



20 



placed so as to work in different directions, With the exception 
that with an independent cylinder motion only one eccentric rod 
is used, and the eccentric is placed on the pick cam shaft. But if 
the cylinders are operated by a spindle motion, a slotted crank arm 
is attached to the lifting rod of each grifFe and the cylinder is 
moved out as the griffe to which it is attached is raised, one cylin- 
der moving out from contact with the needle board as the gritt'e, 
that comes in contact with the hook controlled by the needles of 




Fig. 29. Rack Method of Lifting Griffe. 

that board, is raised, at tlie same time the other cylinder is passing 
in towards the needle board while the second griffe is descending. 
When usincr the cradle lever on a double action machine, it is 
necessary to have two different sizes of lifting cranks to allow ex- 
tra lift for the difference in lenorth of the levers, owino; to one of 
the levers workinu; on tlie inside of the other. The leno;th of 
levers used is about 30 inches for the lontjer end, from fulcrum to 
connection of lifting rod, and 18 inches for the shortest end on the 
longer lever. Fulcrum to connection of liftintr arm on the shorter 
lever is 25 inches, and 10 inches on the shorter end. The double 



30 



JACQUARD MACHINES 



crank is made so that the one with the 12-inch stroke is attached 
to the shorter lever, and the 10-inch stroke operates the longer lever. 
The cradle lever lift is used only on machines that have the 
harnesses attached to them by the cross tie system, because by the 
straight tie system the machine is turned in the opposite direction; 

that is, one set of cards would be over 
the cloth in the loom, and the other set 
over the warp; and in the cross tie sys- 
tem the cards are over the sides of the 
loom or over shuttle boxes. 

The to]) lever lift is considered by 
many to be the best method of operating 
the griffes, and this method can be used 
whether the harnesses are attached by 
the straight tie or the cross tie system. 
All that is required to be changed is 
that where as in the straiixht tie both the 
levers aw on the same stud, and fixed to 
one supjiurt, the levers for the cross tie 
are placed on separate studs with sepa- 
rate sup])orts. The reason for using 
separate supports and studs is to meet 
the different positions of the griffe bar, 
(See Fig. 28.) 




B 



^i) 



E2^ 



^ 



Fig. 30. Pulley and Belt for 
Lifting Griffe. 



Other liftinii methods have been 
successfully tried on double action machines; one being a rack 
movement shown in Fig. 2'J and another a pulley and belt lift 
shown in Fig. 30. 

The rack movement is as follows: A lA-inch iron shaft is 
supported in bearings lixed to the top of the machine. This shaft 
extends over the end of the machine. The supports are bolted to 
the cross rail of the griffe, and on these Bupj)orts the racks are 
fixed. The shaft passes between the two racks, and the gear is 
fixed on the shaft in contact with the rack. An arm is set-screwed 
on the outer end of the shaft, and to this arm a long lifting rod is 
attached. The bottom of the rod is placed on a stud attached to 
the face of a round ii*on plate that is set-screwed on the pick cam 
shaft. 



JACQUARD MACHINES 



31 



In Fig, 30 the pulley A is supported on a shaft in the same 
position as the gear for the rack motion, and to the pulley a strip 
of ])elting B is attached, each end being fixed to the cross rail of 




the griflPe at G. The belt motion is a simple arrangement, but the 
griffe must act freely and perfectly straight or the griife will not 
descend low enough to allow the hooks to be pressed off by the 
cylinder. 



JACQUARD MACHINES 



THE RISE AND FALL OR CLOSE SHED MACHINE 

The illustration, Fig. 31, shows a machine of this type. Its 
purpose is to have all the harnesses level at the center movement. 
The same working parts are used on this machine as are used on 
the sinorle action, the distinctive difference being that cranked 
levers are attached to the usual lifting levers so that the grate 
through which the hooks pass can be raised and lowered, and so 
that the griffe is raised only half the usual distance. 

After the cylinder has pressed off the hooks that are not to 
be lifted, the grate descends with these hooks, and at the same 
time the griffe raises the hooks that are to be lifted. 

On some rise and fall machines, a batten cylinder motion is 
used, but is fixed in the opposite position from the usual batten 
motion; that is, the batten swings from the bottom instead of 
from the top of the machine, the set screws that hold it in posi- 
tion being placed in bi-ackets fixed near the feet of the machine. 

These machines cannot 1)0 run at a high speed, 180 being 
considered average, but faster speed is obtained when the pattern 
is equally balanced so that about the same number of ends are 
raised, as are falling. This style of machine is now extensively 
used for weavintr table cloths, silk iioods, etc. 



EXAMINATION PAPER 



JACQUARD MACHINES 



Read carefully: Place your name and firil address at the head of the 
paper. Any cheap, Ught paper like the sample previously sent you may be 
used. Do not crowd your work, but arrange it neatly and legibly. Do not 
copy the anstvers from the Instruction Paper; use your oivn words, so that we 
may be sure that you urulerstand the subject. 

1. To what may the term "Jacciuard Weaving" be applied? 

2. What are the classifications of Jacquard machines? 

3. What are the chief features of the single-action machine? 

4. In what industry is the single-action machine most exten- 
sively used? 

5. What is the use of the extra row of needles in the single- 
action machine? 

6. How many methods are there for operating the movable 
parts of a machine, and what are they? 

7. What are tiie reasons for using "double-lift" and "single- 
cylinder" machines ? 

8. Why tlo the needles of double-lift and single-cylinder ma- 
chines have two eyes? 

9. Why does the hook on a double-lift and single-cylinder 
machine require a deep band at the top? 

10. Why is the bottom of the hook made like the capital letter V? 

11. l)escril)e in detail a doul)le-action machine. 

12. Why are two different sizes of lifting cranks necessary in 
using a cradle lever on a double-action machine? 

1.3. What is the "rack" movement? 

14. Describe the rise-and-fall machine. 

15. Describe fully the working of the Jaccjuard machine. 

16. How are the cords handled in a Jacfjuard machine? 

After completing the work, add and sign the following statement: 

I hereby certify that the above work is entirely my own. 

(Signed) 



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